I was really looking forward to the Dells Distillery, which opened in May in what was once Sharky’s in downtown Wisconsin Dells. Both the restaurant’s ads and website were an invitation to try the homemade vodka, whiskey, brandy and rum, but alas, they are still not being sold yet.

According to a staff member, they were supposed to be available in July, but now the timeline is “any day now.” That’s too bad, because Dells Distillery could really stand out in a sea of restaurants by selling its own branded liquor. So right now, the food has to do the speaking, and it’s doing a good job.

All the sandwiches are a la carte, so heed my advice and order a tater tot-based appetizer. For example, I had the Torta Tots ($8.99), topped with Monterey Jack cheese sauce, pico de gallo and Ancho chipotle sauce with choice of meat (I went with prime rib). Despite being buried under these toppings, the tots stayed perfectly crunchy, and the thin-sliced prime rib complemented the dish well. My only disappointment was when our server brought out the plate and warned us that the chipotle sauce was “very spicy,” only to be not even remotely spicy. Other tater tot specials include Cheeseburger Tots ($8.99) and Cajun Shrimp Tots ($8.99).

One sandwich I tried was the City Slicker ($8.99), which is braised (shredded) pork, pecan-smoked bacon, cheddar cheese, romaine lettuce and red onion. I thought the pork was well-seasoned (I would like to try them on tater tots), but I couldn’t help but wonder if this sandwich would be better with some barbecue sauce. Still, it’s a well-prepared sandwich, and it’s a lot more filling than it appears.

Another sandwich I enjoyed was the Cowboy ($8.99), consisting of braised (shredded) chicken, pecan-smoked bacon, Cowboy Caviar (aka black beans), guacamole and peppery Parmesan sauce. Overall, a tasty concoction. I really liked that sauce, which reminds of me what you could pour over some chicken wings, and I wish there was more of it. I appreciate that the chicken was moist, and the bacon was a nice touch, even though I couldn’t tell if it was really pecan-smoked.

I do look forward to returning to try different tater tot dishes, perhaps a burger and of course, the liquor. Similar to its predecessor, the venue still seems like a popular night spot as well.

Dells Distillery is open every day beginning at lunch. You can find street parking nearby.