On the Capitol Square near State Street in a surprisingly large space sits Graft, a fairly upscale tapas restaurant with a well-crafted menu and wine list to match.
It’s certainly a hit, given how busy Graft is on any given night. The only knock I have against the menu is the fact that it’s so short, you can conceivably try everything on your first visit if you sat in a group of, say, four. At least there are several items that are worth repeat visits.
One example is the Graft mac & cheese ($7). I thought it was creative to use spaetzle instead of macaroni and gouda for the cheese; actually, this is how I want to eat mac & cheese from now on. Other items from the “vegs & grains” section include Brussels sprouts ($9) and fried chevre ($9), which includes honeycomb.
The next section of the menu is “fish & shellfish,” and the smoked trout rillete ($14) caught my eye. While the trout itself was good, I didn’t like it in pellet form, as it didn’t mesh well with the accompanying brick-hard crostini. Speaking of tough bread, put a generous helping of the sweet, super soft butter on the mini rolls that come with the Graft bread plate ($4 for four), but skip the crostini.
Onto “meats.” Regarding the chicken thigh ($9), the thigh itself wasn’t too fatty, and I could have eaten an entire chicken with that wonderful seasoning. I loved the green couscous, too. Meanwhile, the pork belly ($11) was melt-in-your-mouth perfection, but that’s mainly because the pieces I received were mostly fat and very little meat (that’s okay in my book, but maybe not for everyone).
Three items comprise the “large plates.” I had the pheasant ($19), which was relatively timid in flavor compared to the other dishes (e.g. it could have used the seasoning from the chicken thigh). Next time I’ll order the prime ribeye ($34).
As for the desserts, I wasn’t impressed with the oat dessert ($8)–it just didn’t provide the sweetness I was looking for. The pumpkin doughnut balls ($8) were moist and filling, and I wolfed down the accompanying coffee ice cream quickly.
Don’t let me forget to talk about the drinks. In addition to the wine menu, there’s a robust cocktail menu ($11 each) as well. Both the Breakfast of Champions, made with scotch and vermouth, and the American Voodoo No. 2, made with rum and house berry syrup, were strong and tasty concoctions that you expect at any mixology-type bar.
Graft is open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday, and you will need a reservation.
Note: Unfortunately, my camera’s memory card became corrupted, and I lost all the photos of the food I took at Graft.
Tory Miller, the executive chef and owner of Graze, L’Etoile and Sujeo, has now added to his portfolio a Spanish tapas restaurant inside the Ovation 309 apartment downtown called 
The main menu, available only in the dining room, includes full-sized items, though that doesn’t mean large portions. For example, I enjoyed the grilled scallop dish ($14), though it’s too bad there was only one scallop, especially for that price. Fortunately, the bright-tasting sweet corn elites helps to fill you up a bit.
