I was interested to see how One & Only would do as the replacement for the popular Brasserie V, and I have to say, the new restaurant and bar has knocked it out of the park with its cuisine and cocktails.
Let me start by declaring my new favorite drink in town: the Old Modesto ($12). The base is Barbancourt 8-year rum, and it’s sweetened by the Golden Falernum and fizzy from the champagne. This cocktail is so easy to sip.
As is the Gold Rush, a smooth-tasting concoction of bourbon and honey. I also liked the Caipirinha Plus ($11), which doesn’t look like a traditional Caipirinha but does taste like one. It’s made with rhum agricole and Tanduay rum plus an orange instead of limes.
Meanwhile, the Sweetest Taboo ($13) tasted like a creamsicle, with its blood orange gin, champagne, blood orange, vanilla and lemon. One & Only also has mocktails and dessert cocktails.
The appetizers I tried were a mixed bag. You don’t often see beef tartare ($16) on menus, so I had to get it. The excellent beef was tender and meshed well with the peppercorn aioli, capers, pickled onions and crostini, although the aioli was surprisingly bland.
I also found the Eggs Jeanette ($8) to be bland, but these pan-seared deviled eggs were saved by the whole grain aioli with diced bacon. I wouldn’t order it again, nor would I reorder the oysters ($16 for six, $30 for 12), which were tiny and not worth the price.
As disappointing as some of the appetizers were, the entrees were fortunately outstanding. For example, the duck ($28), served as sliced, pan-seared breast, was tender, packed with flavor and topped with a wonderful demiglace. I could have eaten another plate.
The scallops in the scallops risotto ($32) were delicious and paired with some of the best risotto I’ve ever had. The sauce is surprisingly sweet but enhances its partners.
Sticking with seafood, make sure to try the shrimp roll ($16). The bountiful pieces of shrimp were mixed with the perfect amount of mayonnaise, celery and onion, and they were tucked inside a tasty, buttery brioche roll.
One last item I had was the One & Only Burger ($15), which was composed of various flavors and textures from the Hook’s aged cheddar, slightly spicy pickles and One & Only sauce. It goes well with an order of hand-cut fries ($8).
One & Only is open for dinner every day and brunch on weekends.
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See more photos in our One & Only Flickr album.
