Despite opening less than two years ago, the Edgewater Hotel has overhauled its food offerings. A revamped management team includes a new GM, a new executive chef and consulting help from Bartolotta Restaurants. I was invited recently to see the outcome of these transformations that abide by the theme of “Modern Midwestern.”
There’s much to like about the new menus at the Statehouse and Augie’s Tavern (the now-named bar inside the Statehouse)–the Boathouse also has a new menu–and here are my highlights. Overall, the improvements should attract diners who enjoy high-quality meals.
Emphasis on seafood. You’ll find it everywhere on the menu, from the appetizers (e.g. snow crab claws) to the raw bar section to the entrees (e.g. grilled Atlantic swordfish).
- I mean this, I probably have never had better octopus than the broiled octopus ($14) found on the “chef’s unique appetizers” section of the menu. Not at all chewy, excellent grilled flavor and punctuated with the guanciale vinaigrette.
- The broiled 2 lb. lobster ($58) is very simple, and that’s exactly what I want out of a lobster dish. You don’t need the drawn butter, believe me.
- I’ve always been a fan of Dan Fox’s Heritage pigs, and I was pleasantly surprised to see a 14-oz Heritage Farm Tomahawk pork chop ($26) among the entrees. Save the parts by the bone for last–they’re incredibly flavorful.
- You barely even need to chew the mega-tender, 22-oz Painted Hill Farm ribeye bone in ($48). I’m not sure why enhancements (e.g. Bordelaise) are offered, because they’re not necessary.
Bar food, too. Start or end your night at Augie’s, named for the previous owner of the Edgewater. You’ll find bar snacks, small plates, sandwiches and salads on the larger-than-expected menu.
- Get an extra napkin to eat the “MSG” wings ($10), which are smothered in a finger-licking-worthy maple-sherry gochujang sauce (it’s savory).
- The onion rings ($7, also available as a side at the Statehouse) are battered with both beer and vodka (of course, you can’t discern the vodka). I appreciated that the onions were quite mild. The homemade A-One sauce added a hint of sweetness.
- On my next visit, I look forward to trying the braised porkbelly ($10) and the Beast Burger ($13; topped with beer-braised onions, A-One sauce, onion rings and Hook’s cheddar).
The Statehouse is open for dinner every day, breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday and brunch on Sundays.
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See more photos in our Statehouse Flickr album.
