Archive for the ‘News and Observations’ Category

Thoughts on restaurant reviews

Sunday, February 24th, 2013

Restaurant reviews are both easy and hard to write. Look how may food writers we have in Madison, both in print and in blog form. The barrier to entry is low–just go to a restaurant, take a photo or two and tell the world what you think.

On the other hand, the inherent difficulty is that what you write is open to intense scrutiny. Half the readers will agree with every one of your opinions, and the other half will think you’re an idiot–I know this personally.

Really, to have an “accurate” review, you need to visit the restaurant several times on different days/meal times and have your opinions corroborated by others. But, who has the time (and money) to do that?

Anyway, I was reminded this week of the scathing November New York Times review of Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar (owned by Guy Fieri of “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives”). I remember thinking, “wow, this author is really laying on the hatred of this place,” but I didn’t think there was any malice behind his thoughts.

Subsequently, Guy Fieri defended his restaurant to the likes of the Today Show and E! News, saying that the writer, Pete Wells, had an “agenda.”

What I see is that Wells was brave enough to write negatively–albeit in extreme abundance–on a popular establishment (or more to the point, a well-known chef). In Madison, we have several restaurants that have such a loyal following that I don’t think we’ll ever see a negative review from any writer for fear of the backlash.

If you have a chance, read the comments that follow the story. They’re fairly polarizing and entertaining, and a lot of great points are made.

Here’s Fieri’s Today Show appearance:

Five things I’m surprised we eat

Sunday, January 13th, 2013

I bought some oysters at Whole Foods the other day, and at home I took on the difficult task (for me) of shucking them. It got me thinking: who was the first person to actually pry (or smash) open an oyster and then proceed to eat its slimy contents?

With that in mind, here are five things I’m surprised we eat, mainly due to preparation:

  • Oysters – It’s a rock, for Pete’s sake. Who sees a rock and figures there’s a meal inside?
  • Blowfish – Hey, let’s take the second-most poisonous vertebrate in the world and charge $50 a serving! Who was the person who figured out which parts were safe? More importantly, why does blowfish remain a menu item when it can paralyze your diaphragm muscles and prevent you from breating?
  • Lutefisk – Sorry to keep picking on seafood, especially one that’s eaten in the Midwest. In this case, you take a perfectly nice fish and soak it until it turns into a jelly-like consistency and becomes super smelly, on the verge of rotting. Wikipedia even points out that the Wisconsin Employees’ Right to Know Law specifically exempts lutefisk in defining “toxic substances.”
  • Baked Alaska – Meringue by itself is surprising to me, since someone figured that you could beat sugar with raw egg whites and make something edible. Also, the part about baking ice cream seemsĀ counter-intuitive.
  • Beer – Don’t get me wrong–I love beer. As a homebrewer, I know first hand the immense number of steps and how much attention you have to pay toward keeping things sterile to make a good batch. So, ancient civilizations figured out how to combine random amounts of hops, barley, yeast and water and keep it sanitary enough to avoid funky beer? Amazing.

Better food lures customers (shocker, I know)

Sunday, November 11th, 2012

I never like seeing restaurants offer deals through Groupon, Living Social, restaurants.com or any local provider. First, the cost is too great for restaurants–which already have thin margins–to only receive a fraction of the coupon’s value (e.g. with Groupon, a $100 certificate that sells for $50 gives the restaurant just $25).

Next, too many patrons became conditioned to use coupons; these one-time diners cost the restaurant money. Finally, most restaurants aren’t set up (e.g. don’t have the staffing or expertise) to market to those who use coupons to try to get them to return or buy more while they’re at the restaurants.

I was therefore happy to read the Chicago Tribune cite a study from NPD Group Inc. that says “increased focus on healthful eating and premium options has shifted emphasis from dollar-menu offerings to more upscale foods” and that patrons paying full price has been increasing by one percent each year.

What does this mean to restaurant owners? Concentrate on serving good food that will have customers return for more, not choosing a deal that will have them walk through the doors just once. If you think about some of the most successful/busiest restaurants in Madison, they all serve outstanding food and don’t offer coupons.

Bloomberg food critic Ryan Sutton said “lower food prices don’t make bad food taste better, it simply makes the meal more tolerable. So the moral of the story is that lower prices and ‘good deals’ won’t solves the problems of a bad restaurant.”

Well put.

    Urban Air TryaTaste

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